Climbing Conditioning Program 2011: Phase 1 and 2 Insight PDF Print E-mail

Climbing Conditioning Program 2011 - Phase 1 and 2 Insight

Column #131, 29th October 2011

Climbing Conditioning is all about putting something in place that enables you to climb more, recover quicker, prevent injury and get great results.† The Climbing Conditioning Program is written to try to encompass all the elements that go towards achieving this.† Currently, at Durham Climbing Centre, the conditioning workshops have just started Ė so hereís some input on Phase 1 and 2.

The Benefits of Following a Conditioning Program?

Follow a program that supports all your climbing coaching, training and technique work

Six Exercise and Strength Programs progressively designed for you.

Attend the six practical workshops at Durham Climbing Centre.

A comprehensive Six-Month program to follow week-by-week

Find out how to prevent and manage injuries.

Learn easy and effective recovery strategies.

Customised Nutrition for your individual requirements.

Phase 1:† Create a Foundation and Correct Imbalances

In the first sixty pages of the program book I discuss the principles behind why in Phase 1 it is essential to put steps in place to create a foundation.† Critically, this is the solid foundation on which you will build your climbing performance.† This is not just a convenient metaphor Ė it is true for all sports and even activities in daily life.† Put simply, our sport in which we want to excel may be climbing, football, surfing or rugby for example, yet there is one thing that is common to all of these sports.† Us.† We are all human beings, with pretty much the same physical structure, anatomy, mechanics, biochemistry and function.

A Solid Foundation

An obvious statement I know, but an extremely common mistake many climbers make is that they get sports specific way before they have mastered the fundamental elements of function. Here are 2 major Problems that can occur due to neglecting your foundation:

  1. Lowering your ceiling of potential:† This means that you can improve your sports specific performance, but you have capped it artificially low from the beginning.† Spending time on your foundation at the beginning raises the ceiling of potential.
  2. Injury: Imposing the extremely challenging and specific physical and mental factors on your body and mind requires an underpinning function that prevents injury.† Your training should be finely balanced to get the most out of your climbing performance, whilst ensuring you donít get injured (or at least limiting the occurrence).

Correcting Imbalances

A body with optimal balance leads to optimal function.† This refers to structural and physiological balance as opposed to the balance required to stand on one leg for example.† Imbalances involve such things as tight muscles, weak muscles, postural distortion, injury, pain, low energy levels, dehydration, stress, limited movement patterns and many other factors that bring the body out of balance and optimal function.

Here are some of the elements of function that underpin the Phase 1 objectives of creating a foundation and correcting balance:

  • Posture
  • Flexibility
  • Core Function
  • Movement Patterns
  • Pain and Injury Free
  • Hydration
  • Correct Breathing Patterns
  • Sleep and Circadian Rhythm
  • Optimal Hormonal, Immune, Digestion and Detoxification health.

What is included in the Phase 1 Program to get these results?

  • An Understanding of the Demands of Climbing and Bouldering
  • Assessments
  • A Corrective Exercise Program
  • Lengthen the Tight Muscles
  • Strengthen the Weak Muscles
  • Core Conditioning
  • An Integrative Performance Model based on holistic principles (including nutrition, hydration, sleep and repair, mental emotional link and much more)

Phase 2:† Enhance Movement and Become Injury Proof

Depending on individual requirements, Phase 1 may require a lot or a little focus.† Once balance and function has been enhanced, you are ready for Phase 2.† There is a workshop on Wednesday 16th November at Durham Climbing Centre to be coached the full Phase 2 Strength and Exercise Program.

The objectives of Phase 2 are:

  1. Enhance Movement Patterns
  2. Learn how to Prevent Injury
  3. Learn about Sleep, Repair and Recovery Strategies.

Alongside your climbing and indoor wall training, this phase will ensure that you improve the movement patterns that you designed to perform as a human being, together with an appreciation of how this affects climbing performance.† We must be strong and effective in these movement patterns:

  • Push
  • Pull
  • Squat
  • Lunge
  • Bend
  • Twist
  • Gait / Walking

This Phase also introduces the shoulder girdle injury prevention exercises.† It is a great idea for a climber to have a selection of shoulder exercises that can be progressed and changed as appropriate.† Complementing these with Thoracic Mobility exercises leads to better results as rotator cuff injury is often related to thoracic posture as opposed to shoulder function.

Please visit the website www.functionaltrainer.co.uk or email me if you would like any more information on implementing Phase 1 and 2 into your program

Attend Phase 2 Workshop, on November 16th 2011

Durham Climbing Centre hosts the Climbing Conditioning Workshops that start on Wednesday 16th November, 2011.† To follow the program in full, watch this space for more articles, follow the facebook page, purchase the Program in the full eBook and hopefully Iíll see you at the Climbing Centre.


Climbing Exercise Programs and Training Workshops

Facebook Page - Climbing Conditioning



Jack Walton
Written on Saturday, 29 October 2011 00:00 by Jack Walton

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